Kashmir, Heaven on the Earth - Part 2

Dear Friends, in the first part I have shared my solo travel experience about Srinagar. So, before going to the second part, If anybody of you would like to review the first one please follow the link below.

Kashmir, Heaven on the Earth - Part 1

In this blog, I'm going to brief you about the travel plan of the most beautiful places in Kashmir i.e. Sonmarg, Pahalgam, and Gulmarg which commonly attract tourists, and also how we can access these places by shared taxis from Srinagar which is the cheapest mode of travel in Kasmir.

1. Sonmarg: 

How to reach: Srinagar (Karanagar circle) --> Kangan Village -> Sonmarg

Sonamarg provides trekking routes leading to Vishansar Lake, Krishansar Lake, Gangabal Lake, and Gadsar Lake in the Himalayas. Here I'll mention my short day-trek to "Thajiwas Glacier". Also, the Sonmarg offers stunning views of the "Sindh river".

Here Hotels stay are costly. Starts with a minimum of 1200 Rs /- per night. Also, availabilities are limited so ensure to have pre-booking in peak season.

The distance between Srinagar to Sonmarg is 80 KM. You can get the shared taxi from Karanagar circle in Srinagar. Get down at "Kangan Village" then you have to catch another taxi from Kangan to Sonmarg. It takes 2.30 Hrs to reach. The total fare I paid was 230 Rs /- and it is fixed, you cannot negotiate on that. 

Thajiwas Glacier trek: This is an easy trek that starts from Sonmarg base station for approximately 6 to 7 KM two-way. Pony is also available to take you to this place. Their charges start from 500 Rs to 1200 Rs depending on how you negotiate with them. 

 I think the beauty of the places cannot be simply express in words but I feel it's to be experienced once in a life. 

2. Pahalgam: 

Pahalgam is a small village in Anantnag district situated surrounding the mountains and Liddar river. Its lush green meadows and pristine waters attract thousands of tourists from all over the world each year.

How to reach: 

Srinagar (Taxi stand) --> Anantnag -> Pahalgam 

It is located 88 KM from Srinagar and takes 3 Hrs to reach by shared taxi. If you are going to catch a taxi from the taxistand you will have to wait for long hours till all seats accommodate. So, better to board the running taxis from the road, just beside the taxi stand. The total taxi fare is approximately 270 Rs /- Only. 

Hotel Stay: 

It is easy to get a decent hotel in the center of the village. Rates start from 600 Rs /- per night. Ensure to have the Hot water included.

In Pahalgam, some common places people visit by Pony. Below is the screenshot I'm sharing for rates. For all the points rates were mentioned 4000 Rs /- in August 2021 but if you can negotiate properly all the sightseeing can be done in 2500 Rs /-. All the points are on the same route.

The list of points to be visited is given below:

1. Kashmir Valley or Baisaran
2. Pahalgam Valley
3. Kanmarg
4. Tulyan Lake

Tulyan Lake is the place you should not miss in Pahalgam. Also, all listed points are on the way to this Lake. Pony will drop you at the base of the glacier. from there you have to perform the trek. Trek is moderate. Carry the eatables, Water bottles with you. The real Kashmir valley you can enjoy here. Photos of all the places I'm posting below.

Also, the Aru valley, Betab valley, and Chandanwadi are also nearby most visited tourist places. You can visit the points easily by shared taxi.

If you are rich with time and want to explore other offbeat places like Sheshnag lake, Tarasar Lake, Katarnag Lake, Sumbal Pass, below are the taxi rates. You can negotiate totally up to your skills.

3. Gulmarg:

Gulmarg is the place located 52 KM from Srinagar. It is especially well known for its Gondola ride and also there are many Snow activities are available. If you are with family must go to this place.

Gallery :

Note:

During the Kashmir trip and the places wherever you are exploring, note that here many people survive on the business of tourism. So if you are buying anything from them like Pashmina shawl, Kesar, Dry fruits, etc. people can tell you prices in thousands and those could be duplicate products.

Also, When you will be happy with exploring such beautiful places, your local tour guide here will try to flatter you on how you enjoyed your trip, they talk very sweetly and eventually, will ask you to offer money as tips. So just be aware of such things.

Kashmir, Heaven on the Earth - Part 1

Dear Friends, before going to the main content of the travel plan I just want to share my personal experience which I feel could be important to convey when we think about planning the solo trip to Kashmir. I also had many questions arising in mind about the safety concerns, public transport, local provisions, and many more other things. But I also had to look a way forward from these and we could not remain stuck within the hurdles.

So let me tell you guys, initially I also had some fear feel about this trip as it was my first long-duration solo travel and I would have to discussed with different local walks, find the path, and following to make a plan. But when I entered "Srinagar", people themselves started to mingle with me with open-mindedness. They only guide me on where to book the stay and how to travel by public transport, what are the spots to be covered. So I found people are so cooperative here. I felt very comfortable with them. Also, I could see many military groups monitoring on the street every 50 meters for keeping the protection and maintain the peace. I used to say "Namaste Sir, Jai HInd Sir" to them and with the same respect, they used to reciprocate me. This thing was making me feel very secured and I think that was important for me actually to built my confidence. By seeing alone several times Army persons asked me about my details like my name, where I came from, where to go etc. and to show ID card as well. But this was for our safety purpose only. Even if I needed any location details or information, I used to ask them. So overall it was a very good experience for me, I enjoyed it a lot even being alone with the new people, new ambiance and new place. 

I'm listing few FAQ below which could be helpful for trip planning.

1. Is it safe to Travel Solo? - Yes, as I shared above I feel very safe and never get stuck anywhere. People are so supportive. You can easily roam. Defence forces are there for your protection :) 
2. Any prior permission required to roam in Kashmir? No, not required.
3. Any check post there or ID cards required? Do Army asks for IDs? Yes, you should carry an Adhar card. At some tourist places they ask. 
4. About Network, SIM card and 4G? - You should have only a Postpaid SIM card. Prepaid SIM cards won't work in Kashmir. Also, 4G is available in Srinagar but nearby Sonmarg I got only 2G/3G network on Vodafone. In Pahalgam no Vodafone network. (BSNL/Airtel should be available)
5. Do Offline maps work? Even this trick for my trekking didn't work for me. The map didn't show the route in the mountain areas. It was misguiding on distances. In town or nearby, you can use it where if the network is not available.
6. Is public transport available in Srinagar? Yes, usually shared taxis like Tavera and Sumos are available in Kashmir. Also, it is cheaper.
7. Is train available? Jammu is connected by train from major cities of India but no train to the Srinagar. Only one local train runs from Banihal which connects to Srinagar (I could not find ticket booking from IRCTC app). 

In this blog I'm going to give details about excurtion to Srinagar in Part I and  Sonmarg, Pahalgam in Part II.

How to reach?

Jammu to Srinagar distance is 265 KMs and depend on traffic it requires 6 - 8 Hrs to reach.

By Flight:

Srinagar has an international airport and is well connected to other major cities like Mumbai, Delhi, Kolkata, etc.

By Railway:

There is no direct train to Srinagar. One can reach Jammu. Jammu has good connectivity from other cities like Delhi, Chandigadh, Mumbai, Ahmedabad, etc. The train also goes till the Udhampur station but please avoid going there and get down at Jammu station only because there are many shared cabs easily available from Jammu.

Where to get a shared taxi:  Don't hire it near the Jammu railway station. Come to B. C Road stop, Jammu.

Fare Rates: for Tempo travelers 600 to 800 Rs /-, Tavera 1000 - 1200 Rs, Innova may charge you from 1200 - 1500 Rs.

Hotel or Boathouse booking?

One can book the hotel or Houseboat near Dal Gate, Srinagar. The pricing starts from 500 Rs. You can get a decent boathouse or Hotel in the budget in Dal lake.

What to do? 

• Shikara Ride: Shikara ride in Dal Lake is the prime attraction in Srinagar. It is good to choose the evening time and can take a joy of very peaceful and touching surrounding nature. The Lake view is surrounded by mountains and its crystal blue reflections satisfy and make it pleasant to the eyes. You can also do the shopping floating shops. Just beware about the false prices and try to negotiate it at your best. 
• Fare can vary from 250 Rs for 1 hr ride to 800 Rs/- for 3 Hrs ride. Also depends on how you negotiate the prices. They might asks for 1200 to 1500 Rs/- also for 4 person.

• The Shankaracharya Temple:  Temple is around 5 KM from Dal Lake. It is dedicated to Lord Shiva and the path through a deep jungle. One can enjoy having trek over there. Phone or camera is not allowed to carry. There are 300 Steps to reach the temple from the base. The temple is on the summit of the same name at a height of 1,000 feet (300 m) above the plain and overlooks the city of Srinagar. 
  
  
  
• Chashma Shahi Garden:  
  
  
  
• Nishant Garden: Entry Fees 25 Rs /-
  
  
  
• Shalimar Mughal Garden: If you have visited Chashma shahi or Nishant, you can skip the Mughal garden.
• Dachigham Zoo: Entry fees 25 Rs /-
• Hari Parbat Fort: It is a hill overlooking Srinagar, the largest city and summer capital of Jammu and Kashmir. It is the site of a Durrani fort, built-in 1808. It has the famous Shakti Temple on the western Slope and Muslim shrines of Khwaja Makhdoom Sahib and Akhund Mullah Shah on the southern slope.  
  
  
  

Gallery:

Trek to Ghangad Fort from Pune

Hello Dear Friends, I hope these days all are keeping healthy. Also, with the arrival of the pleasant monsoon season wish to cuddle with the beautiful nature☺ The same feel, it's been a long to had a walk through pitch greens and Hills crosses. In such a flow, the idea hampers in the mind of Ghangad Fort where I start my season's first trek. 

Ghangad fort is situated in the lap of Sahyadri Hills (Western Ghats) in Pune, Maharashtra. Till 1818, the fort was under the rule of the Maratha Empires. 

Trip Details:

• Base Villege: Ekole (100 KM from Pune)
• Trek Level: Easy (Except two small tricky patches of Rocks and Ladder)
• Trek Duration: 45 to 60 Minutes (One way)
• Entry Fees: No 
• Preferred Season: July to early October (Monsson)
• Parking Place: At base village (Free of charge)
• Food: No hotels at Ekole but local people can arrange a food. Just inform them before you start the trek. Not even contact details are required.
• Food Menus and Price: Zhunka- Bhakar (130 Rs /-) and Roti-Sabji-Dal-Rice (150 Rs/-)
• Stay: Can put own Tent (No charges)

How to Reach:

The Fort trek starts from the base village named "Ekole" which is located at 82 to 100 KM from Pune. There are two ways to reach the fort. 

1. Pune - Pirangut - Mulshi - Ekole Villege: This route covers 82 KM. The route passes through the Tamhini ghats.

Route 1

2. Pune - Lonavala - Ambey valley - Ekole Village: This route traverse 109 KM and goes through Lonavala.

Route 2

View From Top

Trek Experience:

This was my Season's first trek, so I was very enthusiastic. We started our journey from Pune at 5 am and opted for route 1. The plan became more enthralling as my childhood friends also joined me this time. We were meeting after a decade. The route of Tamhini Ghats is always been so excited because of the lush green surroundings, Ghats and the well-maintained roads made us enjoy the early morning drive as well. On the way, there are few small hotels where we had our breakfast. 

The road of around 25KM after crossing the Tamhini bridge becomes very bad towards "Nive". We didn't realize but while returning, our vehicle's tire got a puncture. But though the slow pace drives through this narrow path was offering the peaceful experience of fully covered mist with minimal visibility and dense trees, branches making the dark shadow on route, clouds covering the Hills of Kundalika valley along the side. In such catchy surroundings of nature, we couldn't stop ourselves to have long photography sessions at every short interval. Thus we reached the Ekole village at 10:30 AM. 

As I mentioned earlier, after arrival in the village we first confirm the order of our food from local residents, then started trekking at around 11AM. It was drizzling, foggy and straight neck of green Ghangad fort we were able to see from the base only which was making us to feel more energetic and fresh. As we were going ahead we got to see many mesmerizing views and cliffs of Sahyadri hills. As I mentioned above, there are only two patches were we may feel some difficulty one is crossing the ladder and second one is through stiffnes of rocky patch but also there are ropes ties between the crossing points so it becomes helpful for treker, rest other was easy.

Reaching to the top was another yet happiness. It offers the remarkable view of Mulshi dam, Korigad Fort, and Tailbaila. Blowing wind, scattered clouds and drizzling rain were making the mind so pleasurable. The perfect ambiance and outdoor which we were expecting, got to see here.

Trip Expense: 

Definitely, it was very budget trip for us. We were five so approximately we got 500 RS/- pp only

• Fuel for 200 KM: 1400 Rs /-
• Breakfast and Tea: 450 Rs /-
• Lunch: 650 Rs /-

Total Expense: 2500 rs /- for 5 people

Gallery:

Ladder Patch

Rajgadh trek- The first capital fort of Maratha empire in Sahyadri

 Dear friends...!

Hope you are doing well and missing the trekking and tourism amidst of this COVID-19 pandemics. After long, I got an opportunity to trek over one of the greatest fort of Maratha empire during the 17th Century which is none other than "Rajgadh fort" which was in my top list of treks in 2020. Hope this blog would help you to provide the necessary information for this trek. Let's overlook the brief history of the fort and travel details. 

Suvela Machi - Rajgadh

Brief about the Fort:

The fort has stood witness to many significant historic events including the birth of Shivaji's son Rajaram I, the death of Shivaji's Queen Saibai, the return of Shivaji from Agra, the burial of Afzal Khan's head in the Mahadarwaja walls of Balle Killa, the strict words of Sonopant Dabir to Shivaji.

The Rajgad Fort was also one of the 17 forts that Shivaji kept when he signed the Treaty of Purandar in 1665, with the Mughal general Jai Singh I, leader of the Mughal forces. Under this treaty, 23 forts were handed over to the Mughals.

The older name of the fort was "Murumdev" which was under the Jahangir of Shahaji Bhosale (Father of Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj) in 1642. Shahaji Bhosle was the prominent general of Adil shah during Adilshahi and Nijamshahi. In 1647 Shivaji Maharaj captured the fort included in Swarajya with the name as ruling fort hence termed as "Rajgadh". During the 16th and 17th century mostly known as the era of Mughal sultanate in Deccan where no any Hindu could dare to raise the voice against the injustice happening, "Hindu Swarajya" was established by Shivaji Maharaj and taken the oath of Swarajya at the age of 16 on 17 Apr 1645 at Raireshwar. Rajgadh fort became the first capital of this kingdom in western Deccan. Later it remains the capital till 1673 almost for 26 years. This was only second fort captured immediately after the "Torna Killa".

Rajgadh fort enjoys the unique position among the hill forts of Maharashtra. It is situated one of the spurs hills of Sahyadri mountains known as Murum hills, the region is about 35 km south-west of Pune. The fort has three terraces (Machis) and a citadel (Balekilla). There are four gates to enter the fort called Gunjavane, Pali, Alu and Kaleshwari or Dindi gate. The first two gates lead to "Padmavati Machi", Third to the "Sanjavani" and the last to "Suvela Machi".

It also offers a splendid view of other surrounding forts like Torna, Lingana, Raigad, Sinhagad and many more. 

Ideal Period to visit: July to October (Monsoon)

Summer Season: Night trek is ideal

Difficulty level: Average or Medium

Elevation: 1776 m (4514 ft)

Feasibility for night camp: Yes, night trek even safe.

Parking place at base: Available

Entry Fees or Pre-booking required: No

How to Reach:

The route we opted of Gunjavane which is the base village to reach the Rajgadh. 

It is approximately at 70 km from Pune. 

Bus from Pune: One can catch the Bus from Swargate, Pune travelling towards the Satara or Bhor and get down at Narsapur phata. From Narsapur phata, Gunjavane village is at 38 KM and you can find many autos and cabs to reach the base village.

But to enjoy nature ride and lush green, misty routs own vehicle is preferable. One can enjoy the ride while crossing the path through Katraj tunnel which is of 1458 m. 

In Gunjavane there is sufficient parking place is available with parking charges of 40 Rs /- for a four-wheeler.

Four Entrance gate, PC:Inidahikes.com

The trek begins:

Day 1:  We reached the Gunjavane at 8:00 am, parked the vehicle. We ensured to have sufficient drinking water, fruits and snacks. We actually carried the tiffin box from home only. At the village, there are a couple of restaurants available so even if you didn't bring the water bottles and eatables, can buy there itself. Thus we started the trekking around 8:30 am with full of energy and exceptional excitement because the place was like memorizing and turning the pages of history books which we had studied in our school time. 

The frowning foreheads of hills ranges, morning mist and thick greens of the surrounding were making us to again fall in love with nature. On the starting of the path, we were welcomed with the two colourful snakes as well which were looking so scary. The climate was a little hot because the day, there was no rain or drizzling which usually happens in Rajgadh reserve forest. It was a bit difficult trek than ever we have done, still, the difficulty level can be considered as a medium. One of my friends had given up while trek and wanted to return back but we motivated him and energized with apples and bananas and took him till the peak. Total average time requires to climb is 2.5 hrs. Because of hard patches and slippery rocks, one of our friends was not feeling well and tired, we needed 3 hrs. to reach the Fort.

Padmavati Lake

Our eyes were pleased to see so clean, fresh and cool water lake on the fort near Chor Darwaja couldn't hold us back to taste it and indeed we forgot our tiredness. At the fort, there are two temples Padmavati temple and Rameshwar temple. Also the tomb of Saibai who was the wife of Shivaji Maharaj.

Padmavati Temple

Rameshwaram Temple

We had planned to stay at the fort. So these places are sufficient to manage and even safe. We had carried our own tent but if you don't have, people are there can arrange tent for you even the food. Even putting your own tent nobody will gonna ask you or charge you. You can directly reach to the fort without any planning. The contact of the person who managed dinner for us is given below: 

Subash Jadhav: +91 9767881464

Tomb of Saibai

After having lunch and nice sleep on the fort we march towards the "Ballekilla" which is the top point of the fort. The trail follows with harsh patches carved within the hills, no steps but you have to climb the big rocks. Metal ropes are arranged for support and hiking. The views were completely covered in the fog but we still had some photo session and wait to clean up the sceneries.

We move forward our trekking towards "Suvela machi". It is situated at the eastern part of the fort narrows down along its length like a shape of the tail. The path is through dense forest. We did this trek around 3pm. While moving through the thick greeneries chirping birds, crickets and rustling leaves were creating natural music for us which was making us feel so peaceful as if we were cuddling to nature. Sometimes clouds and fog were covering the views of hills and valleys besides which we were following the path was adding another beauty to this scene. Taking the joy of this machi we had to again come back near Padmavati lake where we were planned for the night camp.

After the trekking of the entire day, we were tired and looking to rest again around 6pm. Till the time we haven't yet placed our tent so we took rest at the temple only. So our evening went this way with some pass time activity. We had dinner at fort only with typical Marathi thali of Jhunka-Bhakari in 60 Rs.

Day2: We wake up in the morning at 7am. As our plan was just spent the night and relaxingly on the fort, we didn't go to Sanjavani machi trek which is yet another breathtaking hill forest trek takes divergence and extends from Rajgadh fort approximate 2.5 km. One can visit this spot too. We started our descend around at 9 am by leaving one more trek story behind and taking some mesmerizing fun moments with us of the grand place Rajgadh.

Gallery:

Travel Expense: 

We were four people and had this trip by a Car. As this place was around 85 KM from our place our total journey was 170 KM. So travel expense was minimal, even we carried our own tent and lunch box. This way overall it cost us approximately 450 Rs per head.

Bhimashankar trekking via Shidi Ghat from Pune

Hello Friends...!!!

I am excited to write about a brand new destination this time. Some place that is completely different from the ones I posted before. This is my first time exploring Maharashtra. Read about my first trek to Bhimashankar. 

I was accompanied by Anil and Mayur but how can I forget about the two special friends we made during the trek! They were the two dogs who guided us & hiked along for nearly 4km into the forest and the hills from the base village. You know how they say you find such friendly escort dogs along your way to Swargarohini after Badrinath but to find something like that there was just an unexpected and pleasant surprise. It was maybe a coincidence or we were just plain lucky 😉

Source: Google

Brief about Bhimashankar:

Bhimashankar temple one of the twelve Jyotirlingas situated in Sahyadri ranges of Maharashtra covering an area of about 120km & height of 3400 feet high in the hills. Bhimashankar is of great religious importance and one can see flocks of devotees visiting here during the month of Shravan. It is said that Lord Shiva after getting angry, killed Tripurasura demon. The heat generated from their war caused the origin of river Bhima. The place so called is Bhimashankar. 

An ideal time to visit: Monsoon (June to August)

How to reach:

For trekking, one has to reach Neral or Karjat from Mumbai or Pune.

Karjat is 100 KM from Pune

Neral is 75 KM from Mumbai.

Both places are well connected by Buses, Trains & Mumbai locals as well (from Mumbai).

Where to start trekking in Karjat?

Karjat to Bhimashankar

First, you have to reach the "Khandas" village which is at the base of Shidi ghat or Bhimashankar hills at a distance of 35 KM from Karjat. One has two options to get there.

Option 1:  From Karjat railway station, we can hire an Auto to reach the base village "Khandas". You can get an Auto even at midnight. They will charge a minimum of Rs. 600.

Option 2: From Karjat bus stand, take the first bus to the village "Kashele" in the morning at 6:35AM. The ticket costs around Rs. 25. Kashele is 17KM from Karjat. However, there are no buses from Kashele for the onward journey so you have to book a local taxi or jeep. They charge around Rs. 300 to take you to Khandas village, regardless of if it is a single person or a group of ten. So if you are a group of ten people, you end up paying just Rs. 30.

Overall route is:

Karjat/Neral --> Kashele --> Khandas villege--> Shidi ghat --> Bhimashankar temple

We chose to go with the first option as we didn't wanna waste time waiting for a bus.

Trekking Experience:

The trek starts with a 7.5 KM ascent via Shidi ghat. It is a moderate to a difficult level climb which passes a thick forest, some rocky & hilly terrain. You also need to climb 3 ladders along the way. The monsoon season makes the rocks slippery and it is not advisable to climb during that season as it is very dangerous. In the jungle, you can spot a rare animal here named "Shekaru" & of course the usual monkeys. In monsoon, you can also see many waterfalls. This trek guarantees a peaceful, serene and beautiful eye-catching view amidst the lush green forest.

During the course of the trek, you can find two small villages where you can take a little rest and get refreshments. We had a little lime juice as if it was an energy drink. We also filled our water bottles which got empty during the first leg of our trek. You already know how important it is to carry water. So do make sure you pack light.

Like I said earlier, it was kind of mysterious that the two dogs accompanied us from Khandas village to Shidi ghat. They finally stopped at a point where we had to climb those three steep ladders. But yes, the incident was really true. They guided almost till we reached Shidi Ghat.

The feeling you get when you reach the peak is exhilarating. There is a village at the peak where you can book a room to stay or to only change. I recommend trying the food at the local shops and restaurants in the village.

Gupt Bhimashankar: 

There are so many attraction spots in the surroundings but Gupt Bhimashankar as the name suggests is the secret shiv-linga that remains submerged in water from the river Bhima flowing near Bhimashankar temple. It's a wonderful trek to get the true Jungle Experience. Not many visitors prefer going to this trail, but if you are a nature lover its worth a visit. Note that it is dangerous to reach here while it is raining.

It is 2.5 KM away from Temple and a 30 min trek deep inside the forest.

Monsoon pic, PC:adventures365

Local Guide:

The funniest/scariest experience was when we got lost in the middle of the forest during our trek for about 30 minutes. We were helpless Since we were clueless, we decided to just go back and started to descend. We were about 500m in our descent that we spotted a group who had their own guide. They were kind enough to let us tag along and so continued our ascent.

By the way, if you want to take a guide with you, contact below:

Name: Suraj      

Phone Number: 07218858680

Return Journey:

Two options here.

Option 1:  You can descend via the same trekking route till khandas village.

Option 2:

There are direct buses available from Bhimashankar bus station to Pune via "Manchar" which takes 3 to 3.5 Hrs approximately. Also, the same route is followed to reach Mumbai as well.

Gallery: